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New York Fashion Week SS17

As NYFW draws to a close and we embark on LFW, I always like to look back on the first fashion stories of the new season that will set the tone for what lies ahead.

 

There were some very ‘New York’ labels that showed uncharacteristically feminine collections, beginning with Michael Kors (below) who eschewed his usual high octane glamour in favour of something more pretty and fluid. 1960s-esque bright floral prints adorned ruffled tea dresses and smart separates. These playful and girlish prints in turquoise and pink were then contrasted with some more traditional tailored pieces, with oversized trench coats, blazers and slouchy knits in neutral tones. This collection was really a game of two halves showing the two sides of a modern woman, which was brought together by a string of classic, embellished LBD’s that are the staple you need from season to season. The show had the Michael Kors trademark sense of ease and glamour, but this time with a more relaxed and hippie edge to it.

 

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Tory Burch (below) continued this sense of relaxed yet glamorous Americana, playing to her strengths with clothes that are perfect for the S/S season. She showed her signature kaftans, alongside tailored separates with nautical themes and printed flowing skirts with some very sweet little crop tops (featured in a lot of these NYFW shows – prepare to bare your midriff next season). Despite sharing the hippie vibe on show at Michael Kors, in both collections there is a restrained neatness to these ideas – combining the comfort and ease women want from their clothes with the practicality to take these trends from day to evening. There is a tailored edge to this New York idea of bohemian glamour which makes the clothes both wearable and versatile – a theme which resonates with how we dress today.

 

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Akris showed a collection of eminently wearable clothes, almost audacious in their simplicity but in such exquisite fabrics and so well made that they become something more special. Zac Posen also produced a versatile collection filled with his signature smart, contemporary take on tailoring. The cut of his clothes has a quirk to it that reminds me of designs from early 1960s Balenciaga which still feels fresh and chic. Brandon Maxwell showed a typically minimal collection of only 3 tones; Pearl, Khaki and Black, reinforcing his commitment to minimal sophistication and a focus on cut and material. All 3 labels seemed to be pairing back their ideas, distilling them to the essence of what they want women to wear and take from the brand.

 

For eveningwear Marchesa (below) was stunning, showing pieces that shimmered with ethereal, iridescent beauty. In many collections – from Rodarte to Jason Wu – there was a nod to the 80s and the pearlescent qualities to the fabrics on show in this collection were no exception. Shimmering pearly pastels were paired with gold and classic black pieces all adorned with pleats, fringing and embroidery. The softness of materials and clever draping elevated these ideas to give a sophisticated lightness of touch with a playful edge: a perfect combination for the red carpet which I am sure we will see in action next season…

 

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Finally my favourite collection from the entire week came, as ever, from Delpozo (below and top image). A heritage Spanish label which in the last few seasons has re-launched itself in NYFW under the helm of brilliant Creative Director Josep Font is one of the most exciting, modern and innovative labels I have seen in recent years. It is clear to see in his designs that Josep has a background in architecture; each piece is constructed with such skill and attention to detail that it becomes sculptural. Light fabrics are cut with a play on fullness and volume; a pair of simple white trousers becomes a statement piece with a few clever darts and a bold approach to proportion. The materials are exquisite, whether in cream, floral print or a bold orange stripe – the quality on show really does lend itself to the minimal silhouettes of the designs. A staple of the label has become their embellishment, from sequinned tops, abstract fringing or graphic appliques, these details lift the collection from sophisticated day-wear to transitional pieces that work for any mood or occasion. When fashion weeks come and go there are shows which inspire, those which are practical and a lot that are fun. But what I am really looking for is a show which tells me where fashion is going and what I will be wearing (or rather WANT to wear) in the years to come. Clothes that excite me and yet feel like they fit my life and style. Delpozo manages to hit that sweet spot, combining ideas, fabrics and tailoring which is new, fresh and clever, but with a feeling that these clothes are designed with the modern woman in mind – and that is no easy feat.

 

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Bring on LFW…